A Solo Female Hiker’s Guide to Northumberland’s Coast

Calling all women who love to walk!

Does anybody else love a solo walk somewhere that clears the mind and calls you back to nature, but at the same time worries about something going wrong while you’re isolated and alone?  Me too. 

There’s nothing I like more than solo hiking somewhere scenic and letting solitude bring me back to myself.  But my brain always seems to interfere.  I can be at the top of a mountain staring out at the view and my brain will suddenly remind me: “If you fall on the way back down, you have no signal and no one to help you.”  It’s complete paranoia, but I can’t stop it.  To feel truly comfortable on a walk or a hike alone I need to be somewhere that feels accessible – a space that’s wild but isn’t entirely cut off.

That’s why I’m incredibly lucky to live in the North of England, right next to the Northumberland coastline.  It’s a 63-mile stretch right on my doorstep that’s both stunningly rugged and conveniently easy to get to.  Walking the full length of it takes you from England to Scotland and covers some of the most gorgeous views in the country.  It’s quiet enough that you can enjoy the seclusion of a solo walk but are never too far from civilisation.  You’re likely to catch sight of a few dog walkers on the beautiful beaches – and if you’re like me that’s a welcome sight to curb any paranoid fears of isolation.

It’s possible to complete the whole walk over a few days or tackle shorter sections of the trail on a day trip.  Most of the coastline is accessible by bus or train and there are various places to stop for lunch along the route, as well as places to stay overnight.  There are many B&Bs available, plus a few campsites and – my personal favourite – a few lodges, chalets and shepherd’s huts, some of which directly overlook the coastline.

Whether you choose to tackle the whole trail or just part of it, there are a few spots that you can’t miss.

Dunstanburgh Castle:

The coastal equivalent of the Yorkshire Moors’ Wuthering Heights (and real, as opposed to fictional), Dunstanburgh is one of my favourite points on the coastal path.  As you walk over the cliff tops, this huge ruin looms in the distance, its grand scale becoming clearer the closer you get.  The castle is also open to the public for tours and exploring.  It’s part of English Heritage, so costs a small fee to enter, but this also means it’s staffed – there is always someone available during opening hours if you ever need help.  Signal can be poor in this area, and it’s a lengthy walk to the nearest bus stop.  It can also be a long bus journey back to the bigger cities, but it is certainly worth the visit.  There are usually a few tourists and hikers around, so you never feel completely alone.

Bamburgh Castle:

One of the many castles that nestle within the Northumberland borders, Bamburgh is the only fully formed castle I’ve ever seen that sits upon the coastline.  If you walk along the beach towards it, there’s a lengthy stretch where the castle isn’t visible, when it suddenly appears it looks like it belongs in a scene from a movie (and in fact it has been used as a filming location for both Indiana Jones and Transformers).  Despite being ransacked multiple times by invading Vikings, the castle has been rebuilt and remains intact meaning that visitors are welcome to tour the castle and learn about its history.  Being a visitor attraction also means that there are staff members available if you do find yourself in need of help.  It also sits between the coastline and a road with a bus stop just a ten-minute walk away.  There are buses running between Berwick Upon Tweed, Bamburgh, Alnmouth, Alnwick, Morpeth and Newcastle City Centre.

Holy Island:

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is an incredibly special place – a site of history and pilgrimage.  It was once home to St Cuthbert, who was believed to hold the power of spiritual healing.  Though St Cuthbert has faded into the annals of history, the island is still home to Lindisfarne priory and castle (yes, another one).  While Holy Island is stunning to look at from the coast, you can also reach it by causeway, and the island hosts many pubs and cafés, making it the perfect place for a stop on your coastal hike.  However, you must check the safe crossing times to ensure you aren’t stranded there when the tide comes in.  The 477 bus from Berwick will take you safely across the causeway, but timetables vary with changing tides, so be sure to check in advance.  It’s also worth a walk along the causeway to try and spot the seals that appear at low tide.  As a sidenote, if you plan on stopping for a bite to eat here, I’d recommend arriving early and carrying some cash – many of the cafés close following lunch, and some of the food trucks only accept cash.

Berwick Upon Tweed:

The end of the trail comes just before you make it to Scotland, in Berwick Upon Tweed – another historical spot.  The border town boasts an interesting history in the many battles between Scotland and England.  In fact, in order to defend Berwick from the Scots, Queen Elizabeth I had walls built around the town, which now make for a lovely walk at the end of the trail.  The town also has a train station with regular services back to Newcastle city centre and onwards to Scotland. 

If history and castles aren’t your thing, there are still plenty of beautiful places to stop along the coast – a plethora of spots to watch the sunrise or sunset, and plenty of places to enjoy a good meal on your way. 

Tyne and Wear:

While the main coastal path runs through Northumberland, there’s also an exquisite stretch of coastline that runs through Tyne and Wear, and I’d strongly recommend that you don’t skip it.  The coastline begins at yet another historical location, Tynemouth priory, but Tynemouth has much more than history to offer.  Its vibrant high street is bustling with cafés, restaurants, and (in my opinion) the best fish and chips restaurant in the North East.  You can’t miss Longsands Fish Kitchen if you want to try the traditional English dish. Tynemouth also hosts a popular weekend market and a rather unusual seafood restaurant that actually sits right on the beach itself.  It’s a perfect place to stop for a drink, sitting in one of their deck chairs facing the ocean before you begin your journey up the coast.

Past Tynemouth, the walk into Northumberland is truly epic.  Passing through Cullercoats and then Whitley Bay (it’s worth stopping here to pick up some ice cream from Di Meo’s), you’ll head on to the clifftop walk between Whitley Bay and Seaton Delaval.  This stretch passes by one of my favourite views in the world.  Part way over the cliffs, you’ll pass St Mary’s Lighthouse, now a visitor centre and museum.  At low tide you can walk across to visit the lighthouse and even climb the steps.  The rocky terrain surrounding it is also a great place for seal spotting.

Across Tyne and Wear and Northumberland there are a number of bus routes and a few train stations with good rail links, so you are never far from transport home.  Signal can dip in and out when you are directly on the coast, but there is usually a nearby pub or café with Wi-Fi, and it’s easy enough to walk a little further inland to get better signal.  If you’re out walking during the day and you need help, you can be fairly certain that someone will walk by eventually, meaning you’re never completely isolated.  Even so, I can’t say the same for the evening.  Once the sun goes down, I recommend retreating to one of the nearby towns or villages and picking up the trail again in daylight.

Of course, for any solo hiker, I recommend sharing your plans and location with someone you trust.  Check the weather forecast, take a map, pack a first aid kit, and carry a torch just in case.  Make sure you bring plenty of food and water to keep yourself safe if you do get stuck somewhere along the trail.  Know your limits too – while Northumberland offers a fairly easy and accessible walking route, it can be long, and exhausting yourself could put you in a dangerous situation.

It can be frightening walking anywhere alone as a woman, but it can be particularly daunting walking in remote and isolated spaces. Yet there is nothing quite like the view of a wild and weathered coastline to remind you that you’re alive, and Northumberland provides the perfect setting.  With its Viking-plagued history and countless castles sweeping across the landscape, you can’t fail to be awed by the land, the sea, and the history that surrounds you.  Yet it never feels overcrowded or unsafe.  With accessibility and staffed historical sights, it’s the perfect peaceful escape for any solo hiker.